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Chevalier at The Baccarat


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Well, you can't say Passard's l'Arpege without saying Bordier demi-sel (served not too cold) and pain fabrication maison. (now you'll say - this is about quality and that about pretentious presentation but I'm not so sure)

I was going to write that, actually. It's pr too and may be about pretentiousness, I don't know, but my point is about marketing, not substance. passard is marketing the quality of the butter, not that the maitre' found the chicest way to serve the butter.

 

 

First, the quality of serving the butter is also important. How many times have you been served stone cold, or otherwise not spread-friendly butter? more than once I'll bet. But here is a serious FFF FOH person who's perfected serving butter to old money, old school, triple bypass graduates.

 

Second, marketing is never about what it says it is about. Nobody would care about the butter any more than they care about where the maple in the egg is from, but Passard was marketing that (1) Passard is Breton and still connected to his bread and butter roots (2) Not someone who buys butter, bread, mignardises from the same commercial source as other expensive places. Today this seems silly, both because I can get "his" butter around the corner and because every other hipster joint is about that, and perhaps in a few more years it'll cross from silly into pretentious (which if you consider Bordier vs fresh churned butter from raw cream - it may already be).

 

Patrick - yes

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I saw that the Baccarat's bar is opening tonight. No date yet for the main restaurant, Chevalier. This is the place Charles Masson will be running, with Shea Gallante in the kitchen. Modern take on

I recall the good old days when I went to a restaurant for the food. Now I have all these other things to worry about to determine if I had a good time.

I've been to that downstairs bar twice, and both times got a seat with no trouble at all.   I went upstairs only once. The bar was such a madhouse that a guy in a suit wouldn't even let me in the do

 

 

...once you get past all the offensive cultural signifiers.

 

Offensive to some people here, not to others.

 

 

I finally got around to reading that Guy Trebay write-up (in which I assume the restaurant -- or at least the hotel that owns it -- was complicit). There was not a single cultural signifier referenced in it that wasn't offensive to me. Not one.

 

And I can't believe I'm so very idiosyncratic here, and that there aren't a lot of other people who don't share my sensibility.

 

 

You may have wasted your time, because the "butter curl" which occupies the first three paragraphs of the story n'existe pas.

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I finally got around to reading that Guy Trebay write-up (in which I assume the restaurant -- or at least the hotel that owns it -- was complicit). There was not a single cultural signifier referenced in it that wasn't offensive to me. Not one.

 

If that is offensive, what is your term for Paula Deen?

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Surely you can see that there is something fundamentally different between Paula Deen and "presenting butter to diners in tight little volutes shaved off a block with the warmed edge of a spoon." The latter is utterly inoffensive, even if the average person wouldn't see the reason for it.

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It's the gestalt. You can pick at each little thing people talk about. But it's the restaurant in toto. Chevalier is very clearly designed to attract a group of people that I would just as soon line up against a wall and shoot -- and celebrates the idiotic culture that accompanies them.

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It's the gestalt. You can pick at each little thing people talk about. But it's the restaurant in toto. Chevalier is very clearly designed to attract a group of people that I would just as soon line up against a wall and shoot as international criminals -- and celebrates the culture that supports them.

 

I get the fact that there's a set of things, taken together, that send a particular message, which anyone is entitled not to like.

 

But there's nothing offensive about that, any more than Ssäm Bar's uncomfortable stools are offensive. It's a perfectly normal restaurant that's not to some folks' taste.

 

It might be a bad idea to build a restaurant that's unappealing to a large swath of the dining public. But that's not offensive. It's just stupid.

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It's the gestalt. You can pick at each little thing people talk about. But it's the restaurant in toto. Chevalier is very clearly designed to attract a group of people that I would just as soon line up against a wall and shoot -- and celebrates the idiotic culture that accompanies them.

 

I'm hurt! I thought you liked us.

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