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Chevalier at The Baccarat


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Taion didn't mean it wasn't your kind of restaurant.

 

He meant that it didn't succeed according to your definition of success (which I have a lot of sympathy with).

Of course, the fact that I personally liked it, doesn't change the fact that I thought it had very little chance of success in today's market, and I would not invest my own money in such a place.

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I saw that the Baccarat's bar is opening tonight. No date yet for the main restaurant, Chevalier. This is the place Charles Masson will be running, with Shea Gallante in the kitchen. Modern take on

I recall the good old days when I went to a restaurant for the food. Now I have all these other things to worry about to determine if I had a good time.

I've been to that downstairs bar twice, and both times got a seat with no trouble at all.   I went upstairs only once. The bar was such a madhouse that a guy in a suit wouldn't even let me in the do

 

One look at Chevalier, and I could have told you the critics were not going to love it; and that was before I had taken a bite.

That's because, at some level, while Chevalier has good food, it's not a good restaurant.

 

 

Good food and good service, and ultimately well-priced, but not a good restaurant?

 

ETA: Oh, in the Adrian sense! :D

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I mean in the Adrian sense.

 

Yes, it is not an Adrian restaurant; and he believes that if it's not his kind of restaurant, then it's no one's kind of restaurant.

 

 

I don't know what this means, but I remember quite a few people saying Chevalier's dining room wasn't particularly inviting...and then of course the whole sir/madame schtick (a version of which popped up in this week's NYT Grünauer review)

 

 

One server called taion "Monsieur" once. Or was there a second incident? Even under the direction of the guy who managed FoH at a top Danny Meyer restaurant for years?

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I loved the food at Chevalier. But I thought it was "not a good restaurant" because it was a labored attempt to revive a now-dead style that it was incapable of pulling off (and which, I think -- although I know it will offend oakapple for me to say so -- has almost no cultural relevance now whatsoever). If you can see the blood on the lady when the magician pretends to cut her in half, the magic trick doesn't work.

 

Is the food prepared in a "now-dead style"? :huh:

 

All I'm getting at is that these criticisms of Chevalier apply (and even more so) to The Modern, and to Gabriel Kreuther too. Which suggests there's a strong whiff of prejudice about them.

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Funnily enough, in the first draft of that post I tried to distinguish Gabriel Kreuther.

 

I don't know why you'd say it's prejudice rather than discrimination (in the positive sense of that word).

My guess is that gk (and almost certainly the modern) is distinguishable (and that's part of the point) but I'll let sneak go there.

 

To be clear, my point has never been that this kind of cooking is irrelevant or not salable. Instead, it's been that it's presented in a way that's not appealing to many diners (even if the monsieurs remain appealing to some). It's not that hard to find examples of it being done in a sensible, modern way.

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To be clear, my point has never been that this kind of cooking is irrelevant or not salable. Instead, it's been that it's presented in a way that's not appealing to many diners (even if the monsieurs remain appealing to some). It's not that hard to find examples of it being done in a sensible, modern way.

 

 

Even some that have opened this year!

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Funnily enough, in the first draft of that post I tried to distinguish Gabriel Kreuther.

 

I don't know why you'd say it's prejudice rather than discrimination (in the positive sense of that word).

 

The food is great, I don't believe anyone is getting bad service from that team, and the style and approach of the kitchens The Modern and GK is way more dated than what Gallante's doing.

 

And you've been down on Chevalier since you heard it existed. :D

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I think just about everyone here who's been to Chevalier (except Orik?... actually I can't imagine Orik would have wasted a meal at Chevalier) has liked the food.

 

But it's very distinguishable from GK just on feel alone. Chevalier feels out-of-place in a way that GK doesn't. It's not really the fault of the kitchen – as we're all well aware, there's more to restaurants than just chewing, and Chevalier really falls on its face in terms of overall presentation and ambience.

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My guess is that gk (and almost certainly the modern) is distinguishable ...

Having visited them all within the past year, my guess is that Chevalier's cuisine is much more contemporary than the food at the other two places. Service was good at all three. I know nobody else likes the environment at Chevalier, but The Modern is tremendously monochrome, and GK--although it has some pleasant touches in the decor--is just so vast and impersonal (you see your server approaching from a quarter of a mile away).

 

Yes, the restaurants can be distinguished, but perhaps not in the way you imagine.

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I thought the ambience at The Modern was really depressing. All white and black and hushed.

 

I know this is a lot to do with personal preference, but I'm surely not alone. I mean, just the chairs...

 

n-THE-MODERN-628x314.jpg

 

-1x-1.jpg

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