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Chevalier at The Baccarat


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I saw that the Baccarat's bar is opening tonight. No date yet for the main restaurant, Chevalier. This is the place Charles Masson will be running, with Shea Gallante in the kitchen. Modern take on

I recall the good old days when I went to a restaurant for the food. Now I have all these other things to worry about to determine if I had a good time.

I've been to that downstairs bar twice, and both times got a seat with no trouble at all.   I went upstairs only once. The bar was such a madhouse that a guy in a suit wouldn't even let me in the do

Why do I need surrogates? It's all the same thing.

 

Not at all. You'd pay a high price for a cocktail or withstand some decor you didn't like without making this kind of a big deal if you liked the people dining there.

 

And I've given countless examples of Monsieuring which doesn't raise an eyebrow at other restaurants. Even from non-French staff.

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I bet you hate the decor and the prices at the 21 Club too. :P

 

You see, I know I don't.

 

But that's because it's ancient. Chevalier seems like an attempt to recreate something that has no reason for being at present (and, to be clear, GK and The Modern don't).

 

ETA -- And, yeah, perceived target audience is part and parcel of all that. Which is why I don't see the characteristics of the restaurant I don't like as "surrogates".

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But I think you've produced that out of thin air, plus the brief involvement of Masson. Hotel guests make up a lot of the diners. First time I ate there, I had a family one side, and an older non-snobby out-of-town couple the other side.

 

I'm sure they received some Grenouille refugees when they first opened, but you can't reduce Chevalier to that fact. (Well, you can try, of course.)

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The Modern may have had a different ambience when it first opened--I think it did. Right now it feels like a generic corporate dining room. It really does feel like it could be any city, anywhere. Which Chevalier doesn't.

 

GK is just kind of weird. Not unpleasant, just...weird.

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You know what's a surrogate? When critics review Lilia as if it's wildly beyond what Missy Robbins was doing at A Voce, when it's really the same thing dressed differently.

 

I don't want to sound defensive (because I'm not), but at least I was very careful, in writing up Chevalier, to emphasize that I loved the food, as much as all the other aspects of the place turned me off.

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But on a slightly separate point, would you agree with me that the food at GK and The Modern is--independently of quality--more old-fashioned than the food at Chevalier? (In different ways, of course.)

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Remember that time we joked about some hipster doing a Fernand Point pop-up in Gowanus or something? That food would be even more old-fashioned, but it's more in line with the times.

 

Like, I own a stroller, but it'd be just a lost cause to try to convince anyone else that it's appropriate daytime semiformal.

 

It's okay to admit that you're a stick-in-the-mud out-of-touch conservative, at least in some regards. It happens to the best of us.

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Remember that time we joked about some hipster doing a Fernand Point pop-up in Gowanus or something? That food would be even more old-fashioned, but it's more in line with the times.

 

us.

Your pop up, it exists: http://torontolife.com/food/events-luminato-festival-le-pavillon-french-restaurant-hearn-john-bil-fred-morin/

 

Sorry ab- your pop up. I'll try and get you your royalties.

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