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Chevalier at The Baccarat


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Monsieuring is dumb at any anglophone North American restaurant. It's a holdover that either 1) signals parodic North American French service or 2) the the restaurant is playing up a gimmick. Neither means that the restaurant is bad, but it is not a good signal.

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I saw that the Baccarat's bar is opening tonight. No date yet for the main restaurant, Chevalier. This is the place Charles Masson will be running, with Shea Gallante in the kitchen. Modern take on

I recall the good old days when I went to a restaurant for the food. Now I have all these other things to worry about to determine if I had a good time.

I've been to that downstairs bar twice, and both times got a seat with no trouble at all.   I went upstairs only once. The bar was such a madhouse that a guy in a suit wouldn't even let me in the do

But the bad signal goes unperceived at places like Le Coucou, Sauvage, The Clocktower...

 

So it actually has other and surplus significance here.

Doesn't mean it's a good signifier at those places, but, I would assume, it's overwhelmed by other factors. At Chev, apparently, it's not and its augmented by other things. I don't know, but that seems clear from the arguments here. This isn't the original stain that taints all else.
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So voyager understands, many of us view Chevalier as aspiring to this. The fact that they hired an excellent chef who makes excellent food -- better, in fact, than anything he did previously would make you hope he could do; some of the best in New York now, for sure -- seems incidental.

 

Which is why, having had and loved the food, some of us just can't bring ourselves to return.

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So voyager understands, many of us view Chevalier as aspiring to this. The fact that they hired an excellent chef who makes excellent food -- better, in fact, than anything he did previously would make you hope he could do; some of the best in New York now, for sure -- seems incidental.

 

Which is why, having had and loved the food, some of us just can't bring ourselves to return.

Not entirely. That's a Kardashian meal. What I read is a subtext that suggests that it is the clientele that diminishes the excellent food experience. Too old, too rich, too not us.

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So voyager understands, many of us view Chevalier as aspiring to this. The fact that they hired an excellent chef who makes excellent food -- better, in fact, than anything he did previously would make you hope he could do; some of the best in New York now, for sure -- seems incidental.

 

Which is why, having had and loved the food, some of us just can't bring ourselves to return.

Not entirely. That's a Kardashian meal. What I read is a subtext that suggests that it is the clientele that diminishes the excellent food experience. Too old, too rich, too not us.

 

No, the presentation and the ambiance, which all drip social pretension.

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But the bad signal goes unperceived at places like Le Coucou, Sauvage, The Clocktower...

 

So it actually has other and surplus significance here.

 

Aren't there multiple signifiers at play here, other than the monsieurs?

 

Their effect is therefore heightened.

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Sure, most of the time. Remember The Tasting Room?

 

I regularly forgive a lot of faults for fabulous food, but little for what our son calls "Tuesday night dinner", something you needn't leave home for.

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