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Noreetuh

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By complete coincidence, I had a reservation there last night. Their excitement over the Times review seemed tempered -- although to my mind any hopes for more than one star were delusional (although the problem is that these days, any restaurant with a chef with a pulse has a shot at two).

I think Pete Wells got this place exactly right, for once. In a way, it's too bad their review didn't get deferred for a year, like Fung Tu's. Unlike most new restaurants, this one gives every impression of improving rather than declining over the next several months. (In fact, I join Wells in asserting that the newest dish on the menu -- smoked butterfish over spaghetti with seemingly cupfulls of pure umami poured over it -- is insanely good: the kind of thing you used to get at Ssam Bar.)

 

COMP DISLOSURE: A glass of champagne, and the warmest welcome you could imagine.

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That butterfish sounds really good. This is the type of neighborhood place that I don't think I'd call a destination, but I really like that it's in my neighborhood.

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Yes, but how to use it? I keep thinking of going here, but I'm not sure whether it's a place to drop in for a plate or two and a glass of wine, or a place to plan ahead for a full dinner. If the latter, it's hard to get it to the top of the list over other places I'm interested in.

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Yes, but how to use it? I keep thinking of going here, but I'm not sure whether it's a place to drop in for a plate or two and a glass of wine, or a place to plan ahead for a full dinner. If the latter, it's hard to get it to the top of the list over other places I'm interested in.

 

I think it's worth a full dinner so you can take advantage of their fabulous bottle list.

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Yes, but how to use it? I keep thinking of going here, but I'm not sure whether it's a place to drop in for a plate or two and a glass of wine, or a place to plan ahead for a full dinner. If the latter, it's hard to get it to the top of the list over other places I'm interested in.

 

I think it's worth a full dinner so you can take advantage of their fabulous bottle list.

 

 

"We only have full bottles, sir."

"Did you suppose I wanted an empty one?"

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Thought about trying it when we were in town, but despite having plenty of windows the space looks like a substantial dis-improvement over Vinnie's (remember that one?) and is serving spam instead of spleen.

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I ate here again last night.

 

This is another one of those new mid-level places helmed by a chef with a pedigree where the sheer technical quality of the cooking, for the prices you're paying, kind of blows you away (which is not to say that the actual dishes are genius). I'm not saying that the food was much better than at The Simone a few days ago. But the cooking sure was.

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