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Provincetown, Wellfleet - Somewhat of a Report


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So we stuck our feet in the water over at Race Point. They were numb in about 3 seconds. Jack then told me via FB that the water temperature today in Chatham was 54°F. I guess they don't go swimming up here until later in the summer (not that I go swimming).

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A couple of young 'uns in our family (she is Significant Eater's oldest, and hence first, niece) just had to open a general-store-cum-sandwich shop in Provincetown last summer. After living in Gowanus

Here was our first stop on the way to Provincetown...     Blustery, chilly, rainy day. Perfect for me. And for these...     The lobster on the lobster roll is wonderful. Why they use lettuce

Bought some really nice striped bass at the Mac's at the Wellfleet town pier one weekend about 10 years ago. Grilled it over the fire at the Nickerson State Park campground.

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I think the water out there would be pretty chilly year round. The bay side beaches can be comfortable for swimming later in the summer depending on the wind direction. Although the Cape beaches seem much more suited to sitting and maybe wading than really for swimming.

 

If you want to swim near Wellfleet, go to Gull Pond or Great Pond.

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We went to Ceraldi last Wednesday, opting for the standard wine pairing at $30 for the 7 course dinner. Everyone gets the same food, with changes for vegetarianism, allergies, etc., but there is an a la carte wine list and a choice of wine matches. We opted for the standard wine match at $30. The food was very good, beginning with a Wellfleet oyster, topped with a horseradish foam and chives. The second course: a satiny leek soup, garnished with a speck crisp and a swirl of smoked Espellette oil. Third: This was the most distinctive course: featuring milkweed and rose petal tempura made with chickpea flour. The okra-like milkweed (who knew it is edible?!) was a revelation. Then a salad that included daisy greens, lamb's quarters and various blossoms. The fifth course was gnocchi with local lobster and another revelation -- spruce tips. The sixth course, shortribs and polenta, was delicious, but too substantial to follow all that had preceded it and more suitable for a normal main course in the middle of winter.Looking around the room, I saw that other diners felt the same. Dessert was a vanilla panna cota with the first local strawberries and locust flowers, which were a pretty, but tasteless garnish. The food was $70, extraordinarily reasonable for the quantity and quality of food.

 

There is no posted menu, because it changes every day, depending on what is available from the market, the restaurant's garden, or the staff forager's finds.

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Sounds somewhat similar to our meal last June, Lippy. Good food and a really outstanding value.

 

When we were there, one of the courses used a wild rice that I really liked a lot. I asked the chef about it, and he brought me the empty bag. Called Nett Lake wild rice, I wasn't able to get any last year but it looks like it's available now, so I may order some.

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Sounds somewhat similar to our meal last June, Lippy. it, and he brought me the empty bag. Called Nett Lake wild rice, I wasn't able to get any last year but it looks like it's available now, so I may order some.

Did you have the milkweed? It was delicious. Monarch butterflies are dependent on it for food, but their habitat is being rapidly destroyed or despoiled. If milkweed could be cultivated as a crop,it could help save the species.

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PJ's Family Restaurant, Wellfleet

 

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That's a stuffed clam, or as they're known up there, stuffies. The clam minced with bell pepper, chili pepper, celery, onion, chourico, bread crumbs, etc. Put back in the shell and baked. And delicious.

 

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And a 2+ pounder, hanging over the plate.

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This would be in "At the Shops", but the shop in question is the Wellfleet Market Place, so I

I'm saying here that I discovered a really terrific cracker called Emoi Flatbread, an import from Spain that is not yet available in NYC, according to the website of the importer, Savory Importers. The relatively thick and very sturdy cracker or flatbread, is as addictive as good pretzels. They come five to a package at 108 calories each, in clear cellophane. flatbread, is about 6"x 3"

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  • 1 month later...

NY Times visits Provincetown, and looks back a hundred years. Louise Bryant, Jack Reed, Eugene O'Neill, it must have been enjoyable to spend time in the local bars...

 

This article looks at the galleries and the many seasonal painters and sculptors.

 

 

 

For gallery visitors who find today’s dominant Conceptualism to be thin gruel, these kind of refreshing throwbacks define Provincetown — as does the sense that art here is less a vocation than a devoutly held lifelong calling. The Berta Walker Gallery titled a July show “Naughty Nineties,” a cheeky nod to the age of its participating artists — Varujan Boghosian, Carmen Cicero, Edward Giobbi and Gloria Nardin — all still focused on adding to their already formidable decades of work. For New Yorkers accustomed to the careful marketing of untested recent art-school graduates, the contrast was telling, as was the wide age range of attendees at the show’s opening.

Indeed, 90-somethings have been joined by younger generations of tyros. Some, like the printmaker William Evaul and the sculptor Bailey Bob Bailey, came as fellows to the Fine Arts Work Center and decided to stick around. Others, like the sculptor Breon Dunigan and the painter Tabitha Vevers, were born into dynasties of local artists and put vibrant twists on the family business. And still others, like Ms. Roth, the photographer, simply rolled in on a whim and never left.

 

 

http://www.nytimes.com/2016/08/12/arts/design/provincetown-still-the-place-to-paint-and-to-party.html

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  • 10 months later...

We kept it very simple during our recent week in Wellfleet. Our one new try was a brand new, rather upscale Italian restaurant called Bocce, on Rt. 6, touting genuine Neapolitan pizza. It's a large-ish place with a big bar, live music and, of all things, bocce court. We didn't expect much, but were pleasantly surprised, especially by the live music, provided by a piano, synthesizer and vocalist, several cuts above the cocktail lounge idiom that combo suggests. R. said the vocalist was influenced by Tony Bennett rather than Frank Sinatra and sure enough, his next number was "I Left My Heart in San Francisco." Dinner was good, too, although we didn't get to try the pizza, because the fish offerings were so tempting. Bocce is a fun choice in Wellfleet if for some reason, you want a change from the usual. I think the owners were inspired by the tremendous success of PB Boulangerie.

 

A surprisingly memorable lunch was the fried oyster Cobb salad at Mac's Shack.

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we didn't get to try the pizza

I would have had a pizza had it been small, in true Neapolitan fashion, but R. wasn't in a pizza mood and the actual size (and style) looked more NYC than Naples -- meant to be shared by at least two people. It did look good at the next table.

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  • 1 year later...

Our last day in Provincetown, biblically pouring in fits and starts.


 


We started off here a few days prior, the new hipster AWOL Hotel, which used to be a crappy motel (The Inn at the Moors), but always had the most amazing view of yes, the moors - or the marshland at the very, very tip of of Provincetown...


 


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After a couple of nights there, we moved over to our favorite, the Red Inn (which had been fully booked until last night), where the views are of Provincetown harbor, and where the water laps up right to the deck at high tide...


 


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A quick trip into Wellfleet and Mac's on the pier yielded this for lunch one day...


 


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A lobster roll for Significant Eater (with that dreaded lettuce). For healthy me, broiled scallops, steamed veg and rice.  There are like 7 - 8 delicious scallops in there, which would probably cost $100 in NYC, but that plate was all of $21.


 


Dinner at Fore Street a few nights ago was fine. I liked these soft shells, which were on special...


 


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And last night, dining at Nor' East Beer Garden with a few local celebs (okay, the owners of Pop+Dutch and on her night off, a chef from Nor' East Beer Garden), meant a groaning board of various bites...


 


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Lots of Mediterranean flavor, all quite good, and easily the best cocktails in town;  good beer list too.


 


Our last evening in Provincetown started out with me, by myself (as Significant Eater was on a business call), heading down to the breakwater/moors area to meditate. If anyone thinks I meditate, I don't, but this certainly wouldn't be a bad spot for it. I hung out for a while, contemplating the universe...it's really big.


 


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Since the local relatives are in the food biz, many of their friends are as well. Fishermen and fisherwomen, cooks, servers, etc. So we went to dinner at niece/nephew's home, where they cooked for us.


 


These came out of the water (from exactly where, I don't know) a few hours prior:


 


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A fantastic razor clam ceviche, prepped by that same friendly local chef. A few nights prior, we had a knockout scallop ceviche prepared by the guy who had provided these clams (there always seemed to be"extra" scallops, clams and fin fish around), as well as this large black sea bass:


 


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Grilled, (scales on to keep it moister than possible), stuffed with bay and lemon. It was great. There were also Jonah crabs, grilled focaccia, stuffed and grilled Italian sweet peppers, a great Greek salad, and a rhubarb tart mit schlag for dessert. I brought a couple bottles of wine, some other legal stuff was consumed, and a great time was had by all.


 


It was sad leaving the end of the world, or at least the continental US, but


 


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Rosie, perched at her favorite window seat to watch me unpack, was happy to have us home.


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