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Posted (edited)

i wonder what you think about her inaugural effort:

The menu is a lesson in regional Indian food and the creative possibilities contained within it. It defies preconception or oversimplification, neither strictly traditional nor fusion. Mr. Khanna makes a version of galouti kebab, a silky-on-the-inside, crisp-on-the-outside patty from the northern city Lucknow. But he subs out the traditional mutton filling with mashed kidney beans, stuffs them between two slices of fried lotus root and serves it all atop walnut-radish raita. Think Oreo in structure, with an uncanny depth of flavor.

Bungalow’s ghee roast, a dish in which meat is typically cooked in fat until meltingly tender, is built around plantains, enhancing their richness and sweetness. The peels are turned into a smooth, tangy ketchup that sings. Strained yogurt encased in shreds of kataifi and deep-fried — Mr. Khanna compared the technique to frying ice cream in dough — is unexpectedly, and pleasantly, as sweet as it is savory.

Edited by Diancecht
inserted a gift article link
Posted (edited)

anyway, as i've posted hilariously elsewhere, priya krishna reviewing a restaurant by vikas khanna seems only appropriate.

Edited by mongo
  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, mongo said:

is this disaster really the new times restaurant critic?

she’s their interim critic while the powers that be are looking for pete’s replacement.

i was kinda hoping you’d weigh in. 🤣 i almost tagged you when i posted that article.

Posted

She is one of two interim restaurant critics, the other being Melissa Clark.

And the charade continues...

Quote

Mr. Khanna recognized me as a food writer on my first visit, delivering each dish personally and delighting my mother with a sample of his homemade lemon pickle. So for my next meals, I went in disguise, and was encouraged to see him come by my table without knowing who I was...

 

Posted
17 hours ago, Diancecht said:

Think Oreo in structure, with an uncanny depth of flavor.

Are we 100% sure that Priya Krishna is not just Ligaya Mishan writing under an alias?

  • Like 1
  • Diancecht changed the title to the priya krishna/melissa clark thread
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Maybe I am being mean to Melissa or maybe to whoever is editing her.

Quote

Each bite built on the previous one, by turns savory, tangy and succulent, creating a quietly mesmerizing crescendo

I do love a quiet crescendo.

Quote

 

energized by acrobatic twists and tweaks that pivot gracefully from a solid technical grounding

...

Wilted vinegared cabbage, as soft and ruffled as a lady’s handkerchief

...

snappy but tender

 

Ah yes, snappy but tender. Crescendo but diminuendo.

Posted
51 minutes ago, small h said:

I accept the first one because "quietly" modifies mesmerizing. 

Doesn't the phrase "quietly mesmerizing" modify "crescendo"? How does the crescendo mesmerize? It does it ever so quietly. 😃

Posted
Quote

fresh, local fish is exceedingly hard to find even in New York City. 

Has she not heard of the Greenmarkets? They've been around a while. There are several of them.

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