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the priya krishna/melissa clark thread


Diancecht

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i missed this january 2025 update of an article that was originally published in april 2024:

This former food-hall stand serving fare from Kerala, a state on the southwestern coast of India, has found a larger home for its loud flavors, courtesy of the owners Margaret Pak and Vinod Kalathil. Everything here, down to the stainless-steel plates the food is served on, feels home style. Expect fish fries, yogurt rice and coconutty curries whose remnants you’ll eagerly sop up with appam, lacy domes made of rice and coconut. Even the more playful dishes, like Tater Tots dusted with chaat masala, feel like clever snacks devised in a pinch by an enterprising home cook.

 

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off-topic, but did you know the nyt has a program where you can study how to review restaurants? the price tag is $6,990 not including fees.

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This course will encourage students to deeply explore their own thoughts and ideas about food and food culture and to let their experiences inspire their own expressions via the lenses of contemporary food movements. In addition, students will meet the innovators, critics and observers of emerging trends in each of the fields that drive food conversation, and investigate how they are building their careers to succeed.

This multidisciplinary approach to learning encourages students to sample different fields and employ critical thinking and creative problem-solving skills. The course is geared toward students eager to discover their passions and try something new. From site visits and excursions to lectures by expert practitioners, the course is curated to give students a newfound sense of direction for their future studies by examining a diverse selection of subject material.

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12 hours ago, Wilfrid said:

… (do restaurant blogs still exist)?

The only blog I know of entirely dedicated to restaurant reviews is endoedibles.com, by Dr. Michael Uzmann, aka uhockey.

(Note: I post about restaurants on my blog but not exclusively.)

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"But Mr. Vongerichten and Mr. Benno are too exuberantly talented to leave it at that. And together, they’ve transformed a fine-dining punch list into an alchemically rich menu that goes to great lengths to seduce. Both crowd-pleasing and daring, it features food that amuses you, delights you, inspires you to explore corners of your appetite you didn’t know you had. Four Twenty Five is not a restaurant that forces you out of your comfort zone, but it doesn’t leave you stranded there, either, staring into your Chardonnay."

It's a floor wax AND a dessert topping. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

The chefs pack so many smart ideas into even the simplest of dishes. Chicken bouillon powder was whisked into the sauce of the eggs mayo for a savory burst. Chewy, marshmallowy chunks of toasted Pavlova were hidden, like Easter eggs, in the orange-lemon sorbet. Even the bread was its own revelation — baguettes from the French bistro Balthazar warmed in the combination oven, which steams and softens the interior while giving the crust extra crackle.

Not a single dish played it safe. The black pudding’s rich, meaty essence was enlivened with pickled kumquats, Thai chilies and a base of puff pastry as delicate as tissue paper. That classic French standby, crème caramel, had a bitter avalanche of coffee granita sliding down the wobbly custard.

click

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Not far from Eel Bar. I like the sound of the blood pudding despite that description. But then I read tiny room, packed since it opened, long line for walk-ins... They don't take reservations for 1 and there is nothing on Resy for 2.

:shrug:

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I went with a group of six and ordered the entire menu.  We had the only table in the space.  The stool seating at the counters looked cramped and uncomfortable, though our table was very nice.  The food's very much French bistro / bistronomie food with Viet accents (I guess that's what meant by "reverse colonization"?).  Appetizers more interesting than the mains.  Excellent black pudding.

Edited by Simon
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Matt Schneier reviews it in New York this week, also saying it's always full but confirming that the restaurant has been asking critics not to review it. Nice to have that luxury.

His tip is to get in the walk-in line at 5, half an hour before it opens.

I wouldn't care but he also raves about the black pudding -- while adding that it's not always on the menu.

Hartbreak's Snack Bar.

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  • 2 weeks later...

hmmm

 

“I love the romantic ideal of going into a restaurant and sitting at the bar and striking up a conversation with a bartender,” he said. “But oftentimes in practice, I am just consumed with anxiety” about standing out.

This is part of the paradox of solo dining. Even as Americans are spending more time on their own, many find eating out alone to be rife with awkwardness and judgment. And many restaurateurs, who already run their businesses on thin profit margins, worry that tables for one will cost them.

 

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