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AaronS

Fritzl's Lunch Box

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I walked out of Fritzl's without ordering last night.

The problem was the specials (or more particularly, the lack of them). The only one was an appetizer special of fried sweet potatoes. But the current iteration of their menu is simply insufficient to support repeat visits without supplementation. There's just not enough there there. (The current menu is different from the one posted on their website.) (And so, for that matter, is the wine list.)

I walked to the Ecuadorian restaurant on the next block and had the first guinea pig I've ever eaten in North America. It's not as good.

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I think most regular visitors just get the burger every time.

 

I haven't had that bad luck with the specials, but I see it's a problem if you're going out of your way. Was the chef-owner in the kitchen?

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It's definitely not worth more than a three mile detour. :)

 

I understand the frustration. I walked out of Dear Bushwick, not because the menu was restricted, but because they'd sold out of everything I wanted--not for the first time.

 

With Fritzls, if I order the burger or chicken sandwich or the pasta when there isn't a special, I don't repeat those dishes very often. Have you had the burger?

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I can't walk like an hour and a quarter and have a burger. I just can't.

(I don't mean this to sound punitive or anything. They are what they are. I get that.)

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Understood, and obviously one wouldn't advise that amount of effort to get there. A burger is okay if you just stepped off the L train.

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I finally had the burger at Fritzl's last night. The short and sweet verdict - it's in the top 20% of burgers I've eaten in the last year. Not being a blogger I have no need to name something "the best." When it comes to burgers I'm a "love the one you're with" guy.

Soft bun, about 8 oz. of good beef cooked to order, American cheese, caramelized onions. Whatever the "special sauce" is, it doesn't add anything except a bit of moisture and some saltiness. (That's a good thing because there was no salt on the table.) Nice hand cut fries which were surprisingly crispy. (Too often similar fries are a touch mushy.)

I asked about cheese choices and was told politely that it was served with American. No Swiss or pepperjack for me. The American is mainly a fat delivery vehicle - it had no discernible flavor. It certainly didn't get in the way but a different cheese would have been better.

Similar very good burgers? The Wolcott at Hope & Anchor (½ lb. beef, swiss, mushrooms & sweet onions) and the Euroburger at Korzo (fresh ground beef patty, wild mushroom, caramelized onions, Emmentaler, kaiser roll.)

Can I deal with Nick Solares now?

Nick Solares has officially jumped the shark. Here he is describing the burger at Fritz's.

While the cheeseburger ($14) at Fritzl’s Lunch Box looks eminently familiar — sesame spangled bun, oodles of cheese, special sauce, pickles — it is among the most original and unique expressions of burgercraft to have emerged in recent years. That’s because chef / owner Dan Ross-Leutwyler doesn’t reference a specific burger like the ones offered at In-N Out Burger or Shake Shack (or both). It isn’t based on a childhood favorite. And even his description of it as "somewhere between a fast food and pub style burger" is rather vague. At its core, this is a burger informed by contemporary artisanal, meat-forward cooking popularized by restaurant like The Breslin, Roberta’s, and Fatty ‘Cue. Not surprisingly Ross-Leutwyler worked in the kitchens of all three.


Let me get this straight - a burger needs a narrative so we can understand it? However did we manage back in the '90s?

And here's Nick's big finish.


There is an immense amount of care and thought put into the hamburger and fries. The chef references sausage making, the Heston Blumenthal and Mission Street Food cookbooks, and April Bloomfield’s frying technique in discussing the burger. Because of these disparate influences, it really doesn’t taste like any other burger out there, yet there is an undeniable familiarity to it. Like all great burger it has synergy and balance, but the flavors rather than being layered are a melange, so integrated are the components. There is a rich mouthfeel and tartness and sweetness and salt, yet they all hit you at once. In a town blessed with countless great burgers this one is worth seeking out for its uniqueness and thoughtfulness, but most importantly because it is delicious.


Quick - somebody hose him down.

 

 

"it is among the most original and unique expressions of burgercraft to have emerged in recent years." Nick, are you fucking high? It's a good burger but original? In what way? Nick never tells us.

 

"it really doesn’t taste like any other burger out there." Yes, it does. I just named two of them and no doubt there are plenty more. That's not a knock on Fritzl's. They're not the ones claiming it's unique.

 

The Fritzl's burger rates an A. Solares review is a D.

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More people need to call out Solares' BS. He's got a rap sheet a mile long.

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