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Interesting. I don't pop in to Rebelle because I assume it's going to be full though tables do always seem available online. Should Rebelle be on deathwatch? It has to cost more to operate than Pearl & Ash, no?

 

I just learnt Rose's restaurant is going to be called Le Coucou. I found this interview very confusing and slightly alarming: 'we want a restaurant that's like a Lutèce reboot, with classic French food'. But there's still going to be a NY branch of Chez La Vieille Adrienne? Neither restaurant sounds much like Spring. Is Stephen Starr's involvement worrying?

 

The New York Times went to see Daniel Rose.

 

...a student philosopher turned chef, and a Chicago native who climbed to the top of the Parisian food world 10 years ago with a tiny ingredient-obsessed Right Bank restaurant called Spring.

The contradictions continue: Now this champion of fastidious French tradition is returning to the United States in a partnership with Stephen Starr, the protean Philadelphia-based restaurateur who has the reputation, fair or not, of being more a blockbuster crowd-pleaser than a mentor to culinary brainiacs.

 

In his audition he prepared poulet en vessie for Mr Starr. One of the tributes to Soltner he's trying out is an Alsatian baeckeoffe.

 

Mr. Rose envisions Le Coucou as something of a “Lutèce reboot,” even though he never ate there. “Crazy, right?” he said. “I’m talking about what my idea of Lutèce is.”

 

He seems to be having some difficulty finding acceptable chickens in New York.

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Maybe they just looked at your pictures and decided not to go?

Or it may mean that the board is biased because of features unrelated to the food*. There's nothing wrong with such a bias because we know restaurants are not about food, but Wilfrid and Instagram tog

 

Chicken? Baeckeoffe?

 

Gee, there's NO restaurant in New York doing that right now.

 

I thought you'd be happy about this.

 

 

I AM happy about it.

 

But I think it's funny that they'd go out of their way to make it sound EXACTLY like another recent opening (when I'm sure it isn't).

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It's an interesting puff piece. I noted the correction due to mis-information from a publicist.

 

Hits all the buttons, with a chef maniacal about vegetables. Cerebral, and sniffing the pans. Hospitable, offering the French a new experience. Seeking to honor the legacy of Lutece.

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I can't predict how Daniel will fair in NY. He is first of all a host. He needs to please people. His motto is more is more. I have been decreasingly happy at his progression of dining rooms. Original Spring was tiny, intimate, the rather small plates building on each other to a perfectly balanced and proportioned meal. New Spring was much more ambitious while being less inventive and spontaneous. Vie and Bourse is a tightly structured classic bistrot, apparently very well received by critics and diners. We didn't get it. I don't know how much of an addition he will be to the NY scene. Somehow, I see him as a tourist destination rather than a hometown go-to. In all events it's a given that he'll turn somersaults to please his clients. It's in his DNA.

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I need to add that I adore Danial. We dined with him every visit from his start through a handful of meals at new Spring. He is the most generous host I know, and genuinely cares about his clients. His style has morphed and we have not grown with it, rather like an artist one supported through several styles who has moved beyond one's appreciation.

 

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Somehow, I see him as a tourist destination rather than a hometown go-to.

 

Especially in a Starr hotel dining room.

 

 

Well, The Clocktower is a Starr restaurant is in a hotel, and from what I've observed the numerous times we've been there, it attracts plenty of locals, probably even more than tourists.

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We popped in here last night on our walk over to City Winery. Nice looking space, well air-conditioned; they were serving a few friends and family, or as the hostess put it: "We're just practicing."

 

If this restaurant succeeds here, it may open another front in Manhattan dining locales, because it sure isn't the most picturesque part of the island.

 

So does Starr become the the McNally of the late 2010s?

 

ETA: I realize that there are a ton of restaurants very close to this location, but not necessarily restaurants with this type of attention or with these goals.

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