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The Rest of Us, Paris edition

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Voyager should just move to Brooklyn where she belongs.

Sure you can get those meals in Brooklyn.



Shhhhhhhhhhhhh. Don't tell her.

I know that. Why do you think they are talking about the Brooklynization of Paris?


We spend a fair amount of time every year in the countryside where options are pretty classic regardless of level of dining. We've drifted away from bistrot food because, quite honestly, my friends and I can and do do that kind of cooking at home. And more and more we are finding haute cuisine, both plate and service, too fussy, too precious for us. Annoying. We usually sit with locals, young locals. We laugh that, technically, we could be grandparents to everyone in the room including chef and servers. Keeps us on our toes if not young.

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I can't believe that the Francophone African restaurants (Senegal, Cote Ivoire, whatever else France laid its grubby hands on) in Paris aren't better than the ones in New York.

You just have the wrong idea of what a reasonable time is.

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Montreal is the only place in North America where that kind of cooking exists across a large number of places. The proteins are better cooked in France and the ingredients are better, but Montreal is a reasonable facsimile.

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The question is: so why is "Brooklynized" Paris so incomparably better than Brooklyn?


I don't think that anyone's saying that it is. Certainly, some Parisians think it is a terrible departure from classic French tastes. Most places we go have more of a Nordic sensibility than French.


For our part, we just happen to be in Paris with some frequency and not at all in Brooklyn. What we look for is a chef who is on site and passionate about his sourcing, often procuring product from friends on his motorscooter each morning. We don't like signature dishes that require out-of-season product. In fact, we don't like signature dishes much at all. We want someone like Danial who lies awake at night thinking of combinations of food and technique. We want the guy to mince up his heart and serve it on our plates. We don't ask much. But we also don't accept much less.

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