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Paul Freedman, Ten Restaurants That Changed America

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I remember eating at Mama Leone's in 1974-75. These were the dark ages when restaurant information was hard to come by. My wife and I had matinee theater tickets and we were just kids. All of 25 or

Le Pavillon, Chez Panisse, Antoine’s, Howard Johnson’s, Schrafft’s, Mamma Leone’s, The Mandarin, Delmonico’s, The Four Seasons, Sylvia's.


I've eaten at the five italicized, assuming any Howard Johnson will do but the current version of Delmonico's won't. The Mandarin means nothing to me. I think the other's were well before my time.

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I got scared Freedman would include the French Laundry! I don't think you can complain about his choices given the universe to choose from.

Why? Whatever the critique of Keller's cuisine, it's hard to deny that TFL changed American dining.

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Has anyone ever stayed in a Howard Johnson motel? Otherwise Chez Panisse, Schrafft's, The Four Seasons (and Valle's Steakhouse on Route 5 in West Springfield, Mass.), Mama Leone's.

I think I stayed in a Howard Johnson in Boston more than twenty years ago, but I may be dreaming.

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