Micromanage Paris

[joethefoodie]

After our brief stint in London, we'll take the Eurostar to Paris for about a week.

 

Any recent wonderfulness not in the multi-starred genre?

[voyager]

You might check out Dilia, Michael Farnesi cooking in Roseval's old space. (Book an outside table!) I think he has good taste sensibilities, not too far afield from Delling-Williams.

 

For accomplished cooking and sweet chef in a dive dining room, Les Desnoyers is adorable. Again, see if they're setting tables outside.

 

The current chef at Fulgurances is doing nicely balanced Asian inflected dishes. Have always visited winter and spring, so don't know if they set up on the street.

[joethefoodie]

We're having lunch at Fulgurances today.

[voyager]

Ayscough has never led us astray. http://notdrinkingpoison.blogspot.com/

[joethefoodie]

Fulgurances was quite good - and at 3 courses for 24€, quite the steal.

[voyager]

We've enjoyed about a half dozen dinners there and never been disappointed. Will, in fact, book for end of this month.

[joethefoodie]

You probably don't hit bars just to drink, as we sometimes do, but Sherry Butt is making some fine cocktails. Many of them, of course, sherry based. Lots of whiskey/whisky too.

 

Afterwards, based on bartender and waitress suggestions, we ended up on the Quai des Célestins, at Le Petit Célestín, and had a blast as the only non-locals in the place.

[Sneakeater]

If someone asked you for bars in Paris not for serious drinking, but for people-watching, what would you say? The major hotels like the Ritz or George V (I guess the Ritz Bar has some actual credibilty)?

[joethefoodie]

We were told the actual wine bar next to the newest Racines (des Pres) is pretty hot. Probably not what you're looking for, however.

[Sneakeater]

Yeah, I think not. Too serious, it sounds.

[voyager]

Are you planning on hitting Racines des Pres? The #2 was on our regular circuit until last year when it wasn't good. But I really liked David Lanher's taste and am willing to give it a try. He did a lot of faux pastas where the pasta was a vegetable or in one case calimar. Excellent.

 

While we stay in that neighborhood, we generally hate eating there. Husband's rule, no arrondissements under 9.

[voyager]

If someone asked you for bars in Paris not for serious drinking, but for people-watching, what would you say? The major hotels like the Ritz or George V (I guess the Ritz Bar has some actual credibilty)?

Depends on what kind of people you want to watch. Up to me, I'd find some more local or even, if you will, seedier venues. Aware people who are having a savvy good time. R or GV sounds too ?????, name your stereotype pejorative.

[joethefoodie]

Are you planning on hitting Racines des Pres?

 

Husband's rule, no arrondissements under 9.

 

We had dinner at des Pres our 3rd night here. Good cooking, lots of tweezers, a bit expensive. Air conditioned. They needed at least one more server, because the FOH was running around like crazy. Had a nice 2014 Morgon, after a couple of coupes of Champagne.

 

How do you eat at La Bourse, if nothing under 9?

 

As to Sneak's question, wouldn't it really be best to find a nice cafe in the 9th - 11th, and watch the world go by that way?

 

Oh - after dinner last night, we walked back to our apartment in the 5th, over the Seine. It was almost 11 PM, and there's that last light of day in Paris, which is pretty gorgeous...

 

 

And people were still picnic-ing and party-ing along the banks.

[Sneakeater]

 

If someone asked you for bars in Paris not for serious drinking, but for people-watching, what would you say? The major hotels like the Ritz or George V (I guess the Ritz Bar has some actual credibilty)?

Depends on what kind of people you want to watch. Up to me, I'd find some more local or even, if you will, seedier venues. Aware people who are having a savvy good time. R or GV sounds too ?????, name your stereotype pejorative.

 

No, no, this unfortunately is the most shallow and contemptible kind of people-watching. (This question wasn't for me.)

[voyager]

 

Husband's rule, no arrondissements under 9.

 

How do you eat at La Bourse, if nothing under 9?

 

Oh - after dinner last night, we walked back to our apartment in the 5th, over the Seine. It was almost 11 PM, and there's that last light of day in Paris, which is pretty gorgeous...

 

And people were still picnic-ing and party-ing along the banks.

I should have said a general rule. We've made exceptions, like for Racines in the passage and its sister, Racines 2. And of course multiple times for Spring and, when it opened, for Bourse, which didn't make it onto our rotation. But normally we prefer edgier places.

 

It would be great if Racines panned out since it's only a few blocks from our hotel, perfect for those nights when we return late from the country.

 

And a resounding YES to how enjoyable Paris' late sunsets are, wandering home in twilight altho close to midnight.