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We just spent a week in a studio apt on the marina in St Francois, Guadeloupe. This was our first trip there and we really enjoyed it.

 

The food is a both French and Creole..and generally excellent. We had a few very good meals at Le Lagon..casual, beachfront.

 

La Terrase Restaurant also very good..French..best sweetbreads of my life

 

Le Zagaya...nicer place, right on the beach..French/Creole

 

Kotesit..similar to Zagaya..both on Rue de la Republiqe

 

Raou..downscale..straight Creole

 

There's also an open air market that has fresh fruits and veggies, spices, a butcher shop, patisserie, and charcuterie.

 

Knowledge of a little French is helpful..but not necessary. People are very nice and helpful.

 

If you're coming from the US, it will be expensive because of the Euro.

 

We didn't travel around but heard good things about Gossier..and the beaches between Gossier and St Francois.

 

 

PS...just made a great dinner using some of the spices we brought back...still in the experimental stage with them.

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  • 1 year later...

The NY Times has a winter vacations section today. Martinique was a featured destination, and the expanded direct air service from the mainland US is a big selling point.

 

A bellwether of the new experimental fusion cuisine of Martinique is Restaurant Le Brédas, in St.-Joseph in the center of the island. There, Jean-Charles Brédas, a former executive chef in a brigade of high-end Caribbean restaurants, has opened his own establishment. The food served on the tiled patio with teak and walnut accents is a mélange of cultures and ingredients. There is papaya and fois gras, langoustine with ratatouille, and loup des Caraïbes with curried pumpkin.

 

“We change the menu every 10 days because we refuse to be bored,” said Marie-Julie, the soignée wife of M. le Chef.

 

Surely the island’s greatest nonculinary frisson is the hike 1,427 feet up the Aileron trail past panoramic views to the 4,117-foot-high crater of Mount Pelée, whose actual summit is at 4,583 feet. As we climbed, we were ever aware that on May 8, 1902, it blew its top, expelling 1,000-degree clouds of incandescent ash that vanquished the inhabitants of St.-Pierre in three minutes.

 

Today, St.-Pierre is a lively town of 5,000 on the west coast. Amid the haunting ruins is the small but useful Musée Franck A. Perret on Rue Victor Hugo. Its tragic collection of volcanic artifacts includes a crushed cathedral bell and crumpled musical instruments. Less than a mile away is the Centre de Découverte des Sciences de la Terre, a museum that illuminates the area’s seismology and geology.

 

 

Martinique = Chic

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  • 2 years later...

I'm going to Martinique in March for a week, and from what I can tell, it seems that most visitors still are European, not from North America.

 

I've just started to poke around to think about restaurants and sights and all (my husband has the rum distilleries to visit covered), but I'm not finding a ton of recent information in English online, which is good as it's going to force me to read French!

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