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I didn't specifically write-up any of the meals we had while in London 3+ months ago. But a friend was asking me today about the places we enjoyed, and I scrolled back through some notes.

 

We had a thoroughly wonderful meal here, and the atmosphere is intriguing, to say the least.

 

I'm still not going to specifically write-up our meal, but Jay Rayner did his. Here's some of what he had to say...

 

The six-month-old restaurant at Bonhams, which is open for breakfast and lunch and for a set menu on Thursday nights only, is literally one of London’s hidden gems.
The paintings are misdirection. Kemble’s food is in no way heavy or burdened by luxury for its own sake. It is calm and thoughtful and precise and really quite startlingly beautiful. It’s serious cooking of the best sort, which is to say the kind that makes you giggle with pleasure.

 

 

Prior to a stint at a Chiswick restaurant, Kemble worked for Magnus Nilsson at Fäviken in Sweden and brings back with him less a Scandinavian agenda – in our meal the mood was lighter and sunnier and altogether more Francophile – but an obsessive’s commitment to quality raw materials. The cooking served some of the finest ingredients I have come across in a long while. Plus, he has all the skills. At the beginning there is some of the very best bread, a crunchy crusted sour dough with an addictively chewy crumb, served with the sort of yellow Normandy butter you could smear on a close friend.
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Can't think of when I might put this to the test, but as someone who used to haunt these halls, this sounds like a terrific idea and excellent execution. Drool over and pet things that you will never own, then sit down for a pampering lunch to rebuild the deflated ego.

 

Wish I were there...

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