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I was there alone recently to get my passport, not sure if I posted about it in pre-apocalypse MFF (which I'm still working at a glacial pace to restore).

From various places I tried, Buna had the best (for me) espresso. 

At Comida Independente I enjoyed the beautiful oysters from Setúbal and other small bites with very reasonably priced natural wines. A good pre-dinner stop. 

I feel like the fish and seafood restaurants there are all more or less the same (not Spain). I have a soft spot for Solar dos Presuntos which during covid took over an adjacent building and is now a massive 450 seat operation (including, I'm told, a very nice rooftop). The cooking might not be very precise, but it's easy to eat well there and it's likely the best place for Lamprey if you're in season. Don't refuse any of the cheese and cold cuts offered as optional tapas, well worth getting stuffed. 

Speaking of Setúbal, there are a bunch of rodizio de peixe places there of which Ivomar is the best. In Cascais there's Baía do Peixe which is maybe a tiny bit less good but has a seaside location going for it. 

Bring back conservas and regional products - from conserveira de lisboa, from the mercearia dos açores, and even from the very tourist trap located but genuinely old school rei do bacalhau

 

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