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Gage & Tollner

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I don’t have a problem with it, either. My problem is with speaking derisively of the older, clearly superior dining culture.

Fresh seafood used to be sold from street carts.  

That's why he needed all those apples!

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I guess it could be about the intelligence of the species you’re eating...which is a point.


Chickens are really really dumb. So are fish. Cattle aren’t much smarter....pigs on the other hand.

It's safe to say by the time you're eating whale it's not very intelligent at all.

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This whale is from the historic archives, right?


Wilf, you more than anyone should understand why this upsets me, since you've read even more culinary history than I have and have examined even more old menus.


Menu offerings in 19th Century New York were incredibly extensive.  There was game from up the Hudson Valley and from the Mid-Atlantic and the South.  There was a range of meats, poultry, and seafood far beyond anything seen in our lifetimes.   Terrapin was a beloved delicacy.


It seems to me that if you really care about cuisine, you should decry the narrowness of our current diet -- not gloat about it as St. John did.

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