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Piggyback (from Pig & Khao)


Wilfrid

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I am familiar with Pig & Khao but I didn't know about this offshoot (a few minutes walk from FIT) until a friend made a reservation for us there. Buzzing place with a nice-looking bar in the front then a crowded dining room.

The headline is the fried chicken. I live near Charles Pan-Fried which I think is the best (American-style) fried chicken in the city. Piggyback's "Malaysian" is, however, outstanding. Quality bird (like Charles), meaty and juicy, crisp crumby coating with who-knows-what spices. A range of accompaniments including sambal and lemongrass-lime honey. The pickles were the only thing I didn't like.

All the plates are large for sharing. We made it through an excellent beet salad and half a dozen spicy shrimp before we reached the chicken. The BTG list is imaginative too.

Finally, the price. $100 for two, including two big glasses of pet nat. And it was a lot of food. $50 a head in New York City? I can hardly sit down in a cocktail bar without spending $50. I can't remember when I last had a solo coursed dinner for less than three figures.

I will be returning.

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