It's back!

[voyager]

https://www.marketwatch.com/story/france-is-reopening-to-foreign-tourists-and-will-allow-in-vaccinated-tourists-from-most-of-the-world-01622819148?mod=mw_latestnews

[voyager]

A couple of you have asked if I've had any recent feedback on restaurant and cultural action in Paris this summer.   The answer now is a resounding YES.   Reports back on decent weather, lack of tourists, uncrowded museum openings, restaurants back in stride serving stunning menus.   Not one negative experience reported so far.      These reports by a professional wine guy who also knows his food.

[Orik]

What's his crack budget like? 

[voyager]

Wine's his DOC.   But seriously, this guy is one of the most solid and sane I know, often a practicing paranoid, who maybe just by chance was able to take advantage of a moderately safe and calm window between outbreaks.   Who knows?    But his appraisal of a dozen or so heretofore reliable and several new restaurants is very reassuring.  Covid spacing, masking well respected, batting close to 1000 on food and wine.   They do have an apartment, so lodging isn't sketchy, and they're in a area where they can walk to many desirable restaurants.      

[voyager]

At the same time...

[Orik]

Trimmed down menus, reduced hours, empty seats is the reality. Tourists are welcome but so far they're not coming. 

It's one thing that civilians can book dinner at Septime online, but that they can do it for tonight... 

[voyager]

I  actually haven't heard of anyone's going to Septime in years.    But your point is well taken.

O and I are looking at different sides of the elephant.   What I have been trying to describe is a boots on the ground experience of Paris at this stage of the pandemic.    AT THIS POINT there is civilized indoor dining,  Well conceived menus and apparently top quality plates.  The reality, the bonus is that, yes, there are few tourists so you dine and visit museums with locals and at spur of the moment.  

[Orik]

Regardless of who the people are who go there these days, it's certainly novel that they'd make dinner tables available online. 

And of course what someone might experience as a civilized room and a well conceived menu is possibly an exercise in futility from the restaurant's side. 

 

[voyager]

We continue to receive reports of excellent meals and wines surrounding inspiring musee and gallery shows.   The only downside is recent increase in tourists and (possibly resulting) 2-3 week waits for dinner reservations.   

[Jesikka]

On 7/8/2021 at 3:59 PM, voyager said:

I  actually haven't heard of anyone's going to Septime in years.    But your point is well taken.

I think this is a wild exaggeration.  Two expat friends in Paris both ate at Septime this week (reservations are now hard online and generally picked up only by stopping by in person).  This continues to be the most requested place by Americans that I am asked to help with. While I do not particularly understand the obsession myself (and haven’t been in years), it’s clearly trés populaire.

In a recent and personal report, Paris feels normalish.  Less mask wearing than NYC for sure and a bit of suggesting it is silly by proprietors.  Definitely passe sanitaire is being checked in restaurants, usually with ID. Stores don’t really require masks though many wear them and don’t do checks (in Athens both were very strict this week). Hours are definitely shortened and staffing is a challenge, but Paris doesn’t seem to have had as large an exodus as NY.

Food was really good as ever.  Awesome meals at Table, Passerini, Alliance, L’Attache, Mokonuts (private dinner which I highly recommend if you have 7 friends), Chinaski (great wine bar in 5th), L’attache (they have a great new chef who worked at Table and Maison and are more of a restaurant now.  High and low were all good. I’m sure I’m forgetting meals as I did so so much eating.  I am reminded that basic food in Paris at these types of restaurants is less expensive than NY with better ingredients.  I had a bowl of pasta at Passerini so good that practically made me cry, but there’s more to report on my instagram and it seems tedious to post as I don’t know if anyone reads or cares what I ate.

If the bowl of tripe on polenta and field greens salad from the wine tasting today is any indication, the opening of Le Doyenne will also be worth celebrating.  I have also confirmed that moustaches remain paramount amongst French winemakers and sommeliers.

If you can get here soonish the Morozov Collection at Fondation LV is worth flying to Paris for and the Vivian Meier is also really excellent.  Most of the week was catching up with friends so hard to say what else is good, but it likely doesn’t apply anyway.

If you’re going, probably just easiest to email me, as I’m still very connected in for specifics. 

 

[voyager]

Completely agree that Paris is up and running.   Last night's dinner guests held us captive with two months of lunches and dinners they've just returned from.    Many of the rooms you mention and more we're encouraged to read have survived Covid and thrived.    As you say, go now and certainly engage others with current experience.   

[Jesikka]

14 hours ago, voyager said:

Completely agree that Paris is up and running.   Last night's dinner guests held us captive with two months of lunches and dinners they've just returned from.    Many of the rooms you mention and more we're encouraged to read have survived Covid and thrived.    As you say, go now and certainly engage others with current experience.   

Agree.  Def some hours that are more limited, but little change to note aside from a much greater willingness to accept credit cards for small transactions.