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One White Street: can you recapture 2011 Eleven Madison Park in Tribeca?


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I invite Sneak to contribute any further thoughts he might have on One White Street, but Eater published Sutton's review last week. There are only sixteen seats on the third floor? Is that more than Blanca? I'm a fairly dull boy, so I imagine I could be pleased by 'well-executed and predictable luxuries'. Also, this contrast with Johnson's alma mater:

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As so many venues mold themselves to the culinary zeitgeist with nimble, high-acid, vegetable leaning fare, One White Street moves in the opposite direction, sending out tastings of caviar, truffles, foie gras, and entree-sized portions of aged duck.

Aged duck!

I'll admit I'm curious what Johnson was like at Frenchie. Anyhow, Sutton seems to think one should go to Fradei instead.

Despite Wilson's participation, wine merits only a single sentence, really a single adjective ['thoughtful']. And if Wilson is there why do they need a wine director? This doesn't sound like a massive operation.

 

 

 

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I mean, the idea that One White Street is attempting to recapture the 2011 EMP is laughable (and not because EMP was better, but because One White is operating at an exponentially lesser level of ambition).  And it's not like Tribeca is some funky bohemian quarter:  if someone WANTED to recapture 2011 EMP, Tribeca would be as likely a location as any.

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I have been informed One White Street is Wilson and Johnson's dream restaurant. What kind of mortal can't muster some lofty ambition even in his dreams?

So you agree with Sutton I should go to Fradei instead, even with my predictable predilections?

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What this is clarifying for me is that One White failed, to my mind, because it falls between two stools.

On the one hand, it has the look and feel of a "progressive" tasting menu place.  But on the other, the cuisine is uninnovative standard upscale (although not nearly as luxe as Sutton makes it sound).  Tasting menu places can't be boring.

Oh, and also the room sucks and the service sucks.

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20 minutes ago, Neocon maudit said:

I have been informed One White Street is Wilson and Johnson's dream restaurant. What kind of mortal can't muster some lofty ambition even in his dreams?

Isn't that like saying that Chuck Berry must have wanted to be Beethoven because they both wrote music?

Or that Missy Mazzoli and David T. Little must want to be Richard Strauss because they all write opera?

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And just to run up my wordcount in case anyone decides to start paying me, there’s also the weird disjunction I’ve already gone on about between the food and the surroundings.

MAYBE the boring throwback food would have seemed nice in a nice room with comfortable accommodations and good service.  But in a rustic aggressively plain room — the opposite of what the complacent food evoked — with uncomfortable accommodations and bad service, it was like, “I came here why?”

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