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Sailor, Fort Greene


MitchW

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Haven't been, don't know if that'll ever happen. But...Helen Rossner has been, and it must've been tough (or was it?) for ol' Helen to to give props to someone (April Bloomfield) who knew and allowed terrible things to go on in a restaurant she partly owned and was in charge of.

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Bloomfield’s previous tenure in New York, as the chef-partner of the restaurateur Ken Friedman, came to an end, in 2017, after she was accused of insufficiently protecting her staff from the alleged sexual predation of Friedman and Mario Batali, a Spotted Pig investor. (Friedman settled harassment claims against him; Batali denied assaulting anyone but acknowledged that his behavior was “deeply inappropriate.” Bloomfield has said that coming to terms with her failures in addressing employee concerns “blew my psyche wide open.”)

I'm so happy for April's psyche...and happy that April has come to terms with it.

Oh lookie here - Helen feels guilt!!! And ambivalence.

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I also felt a twinge of guilt, and maybe ambivalence. She is one of the greatest cooks of her generation, and one of the most under-heralded; in a still viciously sexist business, she is the rare woman who made it to the very top. She is also a chef who, by many accounts, turned her eye away from the monstrous misdeeds of the men who employed her and a person who, after those men slunk away out of the public eye, retreating to the comfort of their money and their summer homes, had to keep working. What makes Sailor a success, besides the quality of its fare, is that it doesn’t feel like Bloomfield is making a play for redemption, or taking a shot at glory. It feels like she’s doing what she always wanted to be doing: cooking fantastic food, putting it on a plate, and then handing it off to someone else—someone like Stulman—to make sure all the fittings and fixtures are in place for the lucky people eating it. 

 

Didn't April already hand stuff off to someone else, somewhere else? I guess that lesson wasn't learned.

Just...no.

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18 hours ago, MitchW said:

Haven't been, don't know if that'll ever happen. But...Helen Rossner has been, and it must've been tough (or was it?) for ol' Helen to to give props to someone (April Bloomfield) who knew and allowed terrible things to go on in a restaurant she partly owned and was in charge of.

I'm so happy for April's psyche...and happy that April has come to terms with it.

Oh lookie here - Helen feels guilt!!! And ambivalence.

Didn't April already hand stuff off to someone else, somewhere else? I guess that lesson wasn't learned.

Just...no.

It all reminds me of Adam Perry Lang being Epstein's personal chef and saying he "never saw" anything out of the ordinary. 

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38 minutes ago, backyardchef said:

It all reminds me of Adam Perry Lang being Epstein's personal chef and saying he "never saw" anything out of the ordinary. 

Which reminds me of: I guess that depends on what one's definition of "out of the ordinary" is.

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On 11/28/2023 at 10:01 AM, Wilfrid said:

I wonder why Hannah's unsurprising and not particularly timely piece on New Haven pizza gets real estate in the print edition while we still have to read Helen online to get the full pieces.

Wow, the Helen print piece (just catching up on missed mags) certainly skirts the issue about shame and guilt.

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Wells' kicker:

"I have friends who won’t watch Woody Allen’s movies. I’m sure some people will feel the same way about eating in Ms. Bloomfield’s restaurant. I went the first time because it’s my job, but I went back and chose to write about it because something in the cooking spoke to me. Celery root and radishes and potatoes don’t usually move me. They did at Sailor."

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23 hours ago, Simon said:

Wells' kicker:

"I have friends who won’t watch Woody Allen’s movies. I’m sure some people will feel the same way about eating in Ms. Bloomfield’s restaurant. I went the first time because it’s my job, but I went back and chose to write about it because something in the cooking spoke to me. Celery root and radishes and potatoes don’t usually move me. They did at Sailor."

Where was the Wells review published? I can't find it online.

Edited by sourbroughten
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  • 1 month later...

The problem with Sailor is that it's so palpably superior to similar restaurants I really like.  Specifically, Inga's Bar and Rolo's.  Love them both -- but I now have to think of them as also-rans.

This place is a smash success, very difficult to get into -- and it ought to be.

Politics aside, it's hard to imagine who wouldn't like it.

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  • 5 months later...

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