City Island

[Wilfrid1]

What a curious little enclave: a community of restaurants, bars, antique shops and cafes, running along each side of a single avenue, with the streets tapering abruptly into the water on both sides. I can't imagine what it's like here in the winter, but on a hot summer weekend it makes a pleasant day-trip (and a fairly easy one, once you figure out where the bus-stop at the end of the 6 line is): about ninety minutes from Downtown Manhattan.

 

Not that there's a heck of a lot to do there, except eat, drink and bother the seagulls. As it was our first trip, we made straight for the classic destination, Johnny's Famous Reef Restaurant, a place the size of Katz's right at the end of City Island Avenue, with great views of Long Island Sound. Forty-five years old, and I don't think they've changed much: a barn of a room (and a big terrace outside) ringed by stations serving booze, steamed seafood (with a choice of sauces and Italian bread), fried seafood (french fries, lemons, coleslaw), raw bar, chowders, and even burgers and hot dogs. Grab a table, pick up your orders, pay cash.

 

Now, this is not fancy seafood - not even great seafood - but you can't argue with the price and the quantity, and the experience is everything. Around $7 to $11 will buy you any fried seafood order (except the twenty buck lobster tails) - each of which is enough to feed two or three people. Somehow, we worked out way through a couple of sole filets (didn't much like the flabby breading - matzoh?), fried clams (strips, not bellies), and by far the stand-out, freshly fried soft-shell crabs - about half a dozen for $11 with all the accompaniments. These were great: freshy, juicy, crispy.

 

And we still managed tubs of ice cream from a little place called Lickety Split on our way back to civilisation.

[Wilfrid1]

Repeated the above, more or less, in the face of a storm. Johnny's Reef was busy, nevertheless (although not at the outside tables), with a steady supply of customers driving from nearby reaches of the Bronx.

 

Just wanted to mention that these were the best prepared soft shell crabs so far this year. Crunchy! They are of the smaller variety, but six for $11, with a mound of fries, coleslaw and lemon wedges, compares well with $15 for two fat ones at NY Noodletown.

[omnivorette]

Our anniversary (6 years!) is next week, and we're going out on Monday night for dinner. We want to go to City Island and have a lobster and clams and such. Where should we go? Neither of us have been out there in years.

[omnivorette]

I think we'll have a snack at Johnny's, walk around a while and then go inside when we're ready to Sammy's Fish Box.

[mitchells]

Are you having a discussion with yourself?

[omnivorette]

Obviously not.

[Miguel Gierbolini]

Are you driving? Have you been there before?

[omnivorette]

Yes, driving. It's a quick drive, like 25 mins from our 'hood. I have been there but a long time ago - as in I barely remember. Eyebrows has been a couple of times, but the last time was 10 years ago. My cousin and his beau are coming with us. Should be fun.

[Rich]

I've been to City Island twice in the last year (business lunch and dinner) - Lobster Box & Sammy's. The best thing I could say about City Island is it's only about 30-35 minutes from Blue Hill at Stone Barns.

[omnivorette]

But you can't get fried clams, steamers, and a lobster and sit by the water at BHSB.

 

 

[omnivorette]

Okay so we went.

 

Started out at Jonny's Reef with fried clam (strips), raw cherrystones, and silly cocktails. Clam strips were really low end type stuff, cherrystones were fine, foofy cocktails were fun. But it was a beautiful evening and nice outside and not crowded, and we enjoyed.

 

Then we walked around for a long time, it's really quite something the whole place. We kept saying "we're in the BRONX????"

 

Then we sat down for dinner at Sammy's Fish Shack. We sat outside. Nothing to write home about, although I stuck to steamers (on the small side) and a lobster so I was perfectly satisfied. My companions who ordered fish were less thrilled, but still it wasn't bad. 'brows got mussels which were fine, if a bit smallish. The salads were diner type salads.

 

Again some foofy drinks (I had a mai tai).

 

So it was fun, but I see no reason to go back.

[Wilfrid1]

The soft shell crabs are the best thing at Johnny's. I wouldn't send people there for the food, but it's fun to wander around. I have never eaten in any of the Italian-type fish restaurants which line the main street.

[StephanieL]

I liked the fried whiting I had at Johnny's a few weeks ago, even though it had a lot of bones.

[small h]

Anyone have a recommendation for a place to get a basic steamed lobster dinner? All the restaurants look the same to me, so I'm wondering if one is actually better than the rest. This thread has a lot about fry, and it's also pretty dated.

[Wilfrid]

This would be another place I haven't been to in more than three years. I always ended up eatiung fried food at Johnny's; I see they have steamed lobster and I bet it's basic, but I haven't tried it.