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Very impressive, Stone.


I've always wanted a Nakashima. I think the pieces are more akin to sculpture than furniture. The prices are prohibitive now, of course. Why, oh why didn't my parents listen to me when I was a teenager and pleaded with them to buy a little something?

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When I found myself with a three-car garage and but one car that sits in the driveway, I thought to myself, "hey, I could put a woodworking shop in here."   About $1,500 later, I've got lots of co

Very impressive, Stone.   I've always wanted a Nakashima. I think the pieces are more akin to sculpture than furniture. The prices are prohibitive now, of course. Why, oh why didn't my parents l

If you don't want to use plate joiners, dowels are a good alternative... and no templates.

Stone, that is very, very cool...


I'll have to post a pic of the table I made in grad school one of these days. Makes me want to do some woodwork again and I've been perusing various schools like the John C. Campbell school for creative vacation getaways. (And there are a TON of schools like this one!)

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  • 7 years later...

Do you know what type of oil is on it now?

I would rub it with a scotch brit pad instead of steel wool. Fine. With the steel wool, you'll end up with lots of little bits of metal to vacuum up


Why not teak oil?


The oil will protect it from drying out, but wont give much protection from water marks, heat or bumps/scrapes.

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Some advice I got from people who know what they're doing:


What will the table be used for? If it's a dining table I would not use an oil finish; I'd strongly consider a wiping varnish like Arm-R-Seal or a sprayed waterborne product like EnduroVar. If it's side table or some other table that won't see any real abuse then, sure, Danish Oil or something similar would be fine. If going the Arm-R-Seal or waterborne route, I'd start by applying a sealer of dewaxed shellac like SealCoat, after first cleaning it with Naptha to remove any wax, etc.



I would use a really rung out towel or tee shirt to wipe down to see what dealing with first. Continually rinsing out dust & grime from the towel or old tee shirt. A good coat of good furniture paste wax maybe all that is required.

Oil varnish blends leave a matt finish, because of solvents & driers my end up with a gummy mess. Wiping varnish will leave a sheen but same thing might end up with a gummy mess due to solvents & driers.

Pure Tung oil normally thinned with a solvent to better penetrate wood and dry faster.

Since do not know original finish or if has silicone contamination hard to recommend an oil finish, oil blend or other clear finishes.


t depends; on how good a shape the top is in. If there is just a little dust then a good wipe with a couple moist paper towels will let him see what the top is like. If there is heavy crud then a 3M 07447 Scotch-Brite Maroon pad moistened with MS would work well—particularly if the surface feels greasy then wipe with a paper towel.




As John said what is it used for? If the finish is reasonably good I'd either apply a new coat of polymerized Tung oil —the real thing not the oil varnish fake—or a coat of ruby or garnet shellac ; assuming it's not going to be heavy use. The shellac will provide more protection than the oil and be easier to maintain. If it's a coffee table or other hard use then I'd be tempted to use GF Arm-R-Seal or apply a coat of shellac and then spray a waterborne like GF Endurovar or HP, or Crystalac Poly-ox.

If the finish is not in real good shape he will need to sand it down and refinish.


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