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Wilfrid1

Madrid

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Has anyone heard much recently about the following Madrid restaurants?

 

Zalacain - which I gather has been around for a while.

 

Terrassa del Casino (spelling?) - boasts some relationship with Adria.

 

I am strongly tempted to re-visit La Broche, but wonder whether these (or others) merit serious consideration.

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Can't help you on the restos, but I can tell you there are 3 excellent art museums in Madrid, FWIW. The Prado being the best.

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I keep meaning to 'recommend' Horcher in Madrid.

 

Set up by Herr Horcher, Hitler's personal chef, who was tipped off that Berlin was about to fall and managed to find a friendly welcome in Franco's capital. The restaurant is still in the same family's hands and still serves German 'haute cuisine', Spanish game, and French wine to Spain's dwindling but rich fascists.

 

Fascinating, unique, expensive, and, actually, quite excellent cooking.

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Glad to hear the fascists are dwindling - that's certainly a place I hadn't heard of (unlike the Prado :P ).

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Glad to hear the fascists are dwindling - that's certainly a place I hadn't heard of (unlike the Prado :P ).

As I dimly recall, there's lots of Bosch at the Prado along with the usual Spanish suspects.

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The other 2 museums being MUSEO THYSSEN-BORNEMISZA and CENTRO DE ARTE REINA SOFIA (or is it Sofia Reina?), where Guernica hangs.

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I re-read my notes on my last dinner at La Broche, and I'm going there again. It was amazingly good, and I won't get a chance to go every year.

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Had to cancel La Broche last night and re-book it for next week, thanks to Madrid airport losing my luggage. Bastards. They claim to have found it again, so I may have a change of clothes this evening. I daresay I might have swaggered into La Broche wearing the same gear I´d slept in on the plane, but I guarantee I would not have enjoyed it.

 

I am logged on from Lavapies (or Washfeet in English), the backstreets of Madrid, and feeling slightly better for two small beers and a creamy slice of tortilla.

 

Bad news: Starbucks everywhere.

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And extraordinary numbers of young Latina hookers, bizarrely congregated just off the Gran Via where all the cops park their cars and mill around. The cops seem not the slightest bit interested in the somewhat vigorous propositioning which goes on. Almost as rough as Pigalle.

 

I don´t see much point repeating tips about Madrid which have appeared in the past, although I´m happy to field questions. One new recommendation to pass on is Bodegas Taberna Ricla, right opposite Botin. I called in here a few times on my last visit, but failed to note the name. I really like the place. It has the look of a rather grubby, cramped hole-in-the-wall, but in fact it´s run with some care and attention for locals and the odd tourist. An interesting selection of regional wines chalked on the wall (I liked the Pata Negra Gran Reserva 1996, at about a dollar glass), as well as very inexpensive wine from the barrel, sherry, vermouth, cider and the rest. Space is limited, and the bar itself is about four inches wide. I have found a small tiled surface by the door, large enough to hold my book, my drink and my snack, and a good vantage point for observing the cummings and gowings at the restaurant opposite.

 

As well as the free tapas (a sardine here, a slice of chorizo there), there´s a good list of canapes (tapas on bread) and raciones. One thirst-provoking specialty is the cabrales blended with cider, which I think I mentioned before. They also offer a very civilised tapa of callos (tripe stewed with chorizo) rather than the stomach-stuffing bowl usually offered. Speaking of stomach-stuffing, the Madrilenos do seem very fond of bread. I ordered some morcilla in a bar called El Buscon, and it came sandwiched between great wedges of hot toasted bread, sandwich bars are everywhere, and montaditos (little rolls) are all the rage. Nice, but it´s just rather filling.

 

I also drank rather a lot of sherry in La Venencia, but that oasis has been mentioned often before.

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