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Spice Market


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Amanda does the Spice Market, and loves it. Three stars.

 

She finds the minimalism of Vongerichten, his disciplined approach to heat, and his playful inventiveness (glazed tapioca, anyone?) to be refreshing and challenging. The review is almost a caravan through previous efforts like 66 and Vong, with references to each.

 

There's hardly anything in the review she doesn't like, not even the stench of the meat cutters nearby. She seems drawn in, literally, from the front door.

 

Spice market

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I haven't been, but Amanda's review seems way over the top based on everything that I've heard. FG provides a link to a review in today's Post by Steve Cuozzo that is much more balanced. Providing the link here is beyond my technical abilities.

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I learned to like Hesser's writing when she got away from the bloody food diary where she demeaned her fiance and everyone in her family. She really hit her stride with some of her essay pieces, including a nice bit of investigative journalism on how the Wine Spectator restaurant wine list awards are just a marketing gimmick and money maker for the magazine.

However, she is not cut out to be a restaurant reviewer. First, an absolute (and unwarranted) slam on Montrachet and now an over the top fawn-fest for JG's glorified egg roll shack. I am not saying that the food here is not good, or even very good, but it is what it is, and I am concerned by the manner in which she started gushing before she even got in the front door.

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I am hardly unbiased, but today's review is so gushy it's suspect. Would it be churlish to note that JG wrote a glowing jacket blurb for Hesser's silly book? I suspect she'd rave if the man served her a turd on a plate.

 

Ron, for what it's worth, Daniel Johnnes was badly misquoted in Hesser's "exposé" of the Wine Spectator awards, which nearly trashed our relationship with Marv Shanken and Tom Matthews. That wasn't investigative reporting. It was tabloid journalism.

 

I should probably mention that I'm biased.

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After one star for Asiate, I wouldn't give her reviews or ratings a second thought. Not that Asiate was anything like perfect, but one star is just incorrect. I nearly got into an argument on Chowhound about whether such ratings were subjective, but fortunately the software is not conducive to thirty page debates.

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Ron, for what it's worth, Daniel Johnnes was badly misquoted in Hesser's "exposé" of the Wine Spectator awards, which nearly trashed our relationship with Marv Shanken and Tom Matthews. That wasn't investigative reporting. It was tabloid journalism.

Cathy, I don't doubt that she misquoted Mr. Johnnes to make a point, but she was the first journalist with enough guts to call bullshit on those ridiculous wine spectator awards. I've been railing against those things for years, but no one listens to me. :(

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