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i wonder what you think about her inaugural effort: The menu is a lesson in regional Indian food and the creative possibilities contained within it. It defies preconception or oversimplification, neither strictly traditional nor fusion. Mr. Khanna makes a version of galouti kebab, a silky-on-the-inside, crisp-on-the-outside patty from the northern city Lucknow. But he subs out the traditional mutton filling with mashed kidney beans, stuffs them between two slices of fried lotus root and serves it all atop walnut-radish raita. Think Oreo in structure, with an uncanny depth of flavor. Bungalow’s ghee roast, a dish in which meat is typically cooked in fat until meltingly tender, is built around plantains, enhancing their richness and sweetness. The peels are turned into a smooth, tangy ketchup that sings. Strained yogurt encased in shreds of kataifi and deep-fried — Mr. Khanna compared the technique to frying ice cream in dough — is unexpectedly, and pleasantly, as sweet as it is savory.