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Simon

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Simon last won the day on September 16 2024

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  1. Simon

    Le Veau d'Or

    Calf's brain special. Best thing I've eaten in a long time.
  2. I'm also in Philly this weekend. Dinner at Friday Saturday Sunday tonight. Technically excellent (aside from overbreaded sweetbreads), with the influence of Black food traditions subtle and sophisticated. Maybe too subtle in some dishes, where I was expecting bolder flavors. Perhaps the most ingenious preparation: agnolotti filled with grits. Brilliant and delicious.
  3. This is wild https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/thomas-keller-french-laundry-20290670.php
  4. What dishes have you especially liked at Ci Siamo?
  5. The goat is outstanding.
  6. https://www.nytimes.com/2025/03/13/books/review/laurie-woolever-care-and-feeding.html One problem with outrage, an extremely salient problem as it turns out, is exhaustion from it. Selinger opens her book pre-aggrieved. In fact, the book seems to have sprung like Zeus from the loins of titanic anger, or at least from an Eater article. She sees slights like Kendrick sees dead people. She is “assaulted” by the smell of petits fours. Her lovers are manipulative “men who wanted to suck from me the things that were useful to them, leaving behind only my shell, my carapace.” Everyone catches it in “Cellar Rat.” Gwyneth Paltrow is an “icy little troll.” Jimmy Fallon “claimed to be allergic to mushrooms, and possibly that was true or possibly he was just one of those people who lied to save face so that he could avoid copping to the fact that he was one of those people who didn’t like a food that most people did like.” The chief executive of the BLT restaurant group is “Jewish and kept kosher and he loved to show up at the restaurant with a wad of bills so thick it actually hurt to watch him.” The food guide pioneer Tim Zagat is, without explanation, “rotund, grotesque.” It’s the early aughts and Williamsburg, Brooklyn, is repulsive, the farm-to-table movement a sham, and Colleen, a manager at Bar Americain with “straight and oily” hair who fires Selinger for texting during work, “the kind of restaurant lifer who hated people like me — newbies, people who fit in seamlessly for no good reason.” “Cellar Rat” feels at times like a charmless mix of Joris-Karl Huysmans, M.F.K. Fisher and Regina George. A blurb describes the book as “brutally honest,” but there’s a thin line between brutal honesty and glib brutality. These are lessons I wish Selinger could have had a chance to pick up from Tony Bourdain, and ones Woolever certainly did. Selinger’s foundational trauma is a problematic sexual encounter with the pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini. She renders the episode in explicit, outraged detail but also with a frustrating veil of vagueness. The difficulty for the reader, however sympathetic, is that the incident doesn’t occur until halfway through the book, by which point our outrage meter has been somewhat decalibrated by so much relentless flippancy — and if this is what cemented or changed her attitudes, that’s not clear, either. To make matters more confusing, each chapter ends on a recipe. For instance, “Chapter 5: Fourplay,” which contains the Iuzzini episode, finishes with a recipe for Bittersweet Chocolate Cream Pie. It’s not quite as bad as Batali’s mea culpa with accompanying recipe for pizza dough cinnamon rolls, but it’s equally baffling. Unbelievably, in her acknowledgments, Selinger ends her book by dedicating it to the people of Gaza. “This book is yours too,” she writes. But, quite frankly, I doubt they would want it.
  7. Has anyone been to Saint Urban (or the previous iteration in Syracuse)?
  8. I very much appreciated the lower sodium level. And I completely agree that the duck was spectacular.
  9. "I realized that this glamorous hot spot was in fact just a front for a piercingly intelligent and original restaurant, with a kitchen whose dexterity and finesse handily outshone the dining room’s influencer glow. A meal at Bridges can feel like discovering that your hot date also has a sizzling wit and a Ph.D." 🤢
  10. Any recommendations? Heading there for a few days next month. Have enjoyed Vernick in the past but would love some other suggestions! Thank you!
  11. Yeah I was underwhelmed when I went last year for this, especially for the price (which I think went up).
  12. I went with a group of six and ordered the entire menu. We had the only table in the space. The stool seating at the counters looked cramped and uncomfortable, though our table was very nice. The food's very much French bistro / bistronomie food with Viet accents (I guess that's what meant by "reverse colonization"?). Appetizers more interesting than the mains. Excellent black pudding.
  13. https://messaging-custom-newsletters.nytimes.com/dynamic/render?uri=nyt%3A%2F%2Fnewsletter%2F8b0c027a-4bfc-54e6-bd2e-7788ee8cdc9d&sendId=191814&productCode=PW&isViewInBrowser=true "It’s food that doesn’t just please, it woos" strikes me as Melissa Clark doing a bad Ruth Reichl impression.
  14. Just for the burger. Ironically, I would have spent 2x more if they had had the RW menu on offer.
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