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Diancecht

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Posts posted by Diancecht

  1. Even as a staunch Francophile, I could have lived without some of the more wistful dishes ā€” like the oeuf en gelĆ©e, a soft-boiled egg suspended in a cylinder of gelatinized consommĆ© that seemed more antique than exciting. Or Les DĆ©lices ā€œVeau dā€™Or,ā€ a trio of kidney, liver and sweetbreads saturated in a mustard and Cognac-spiked jus whose overall effect was unrelentingly rich.

    click

    sounds likeĀ priya isnā€™t a fanā€¦oh well, more for us

  2. The xiao long bao, when they finally arrived, were deflated and slack, having leaked puddles in their basket, and the dribbles of soup left inside the skins were hardly enough to moisten the chalky meat. Cod-filled dumplings were so bland my friend asked to have them boxed up to take back for her sick dog (four stars from the dog). Shanghai-style rice cakes were threaded with hard nubs of overcooked shrimp and not much by way of seasoning.

  3. how do we feel about making restaurant reservationsĀ the old fashioned way?

    While some may roll their eyes at the idea of making a phone call to speak to a real person for a reservation, Vaughn says customers are happy to find a human on the other end of a phone line.Ā 

    ā€œPeople are almost starving for that human connection,ā€ Vaughn said. In a world where a machine is used to instantly access everything from dinner to dish soap, there are advantages ā€” and costs ā€” to tech. OpenTable runs between $149 and $499 per month for a restaurant, plus a per-person reservation fee that varies depending on the plan, from 25 cents (from the restaurant site) to $1 (from the OT site).Ā 

    Ā 

    Yet it comes with firepower. ā€œOpenTable equips restaurants with the tools that pen and paper simply canā€™t do alone such as filling seats, driving loyalty and repeat guests, and delivering personalized hospitality,ā€ OpenTable CEO Debby Soo answered via email.

  4. clickĀ for a related story from 2022:

    ā€”ā€”ā€”ā€”ā€”

    The three principals ofĀ Major Food Group, the hospitality company behind the celebrity-packed, always-bookedĀ CarboneĀ restaurants, seem to be crushing it in Miami. With Contessa, the chefs Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi and their partner Jeff Zalaznick have now chalked up nine openings in Florida in less than two years. (A 10th, Japanese Bocce Club, opened atĀ the Boca RatonĀ resort the next day.)

    Ā 

    The partners, all native New Yorkers, will soon have more restaurants here than they do in Manhattan. And thatā€™s to say nothing of the Carbones that need tending in Dallas and Hong Kong, and the Sadelleā€™s in Paris and Las Vegas, all opened in the last decade. At press time, the global count was 42 restaurants ā€” a portfolio rivaling those of star chefs like Alain Ducasse and Jean-Georges Vongerichten that took 40 years to build.

    New York, the partners have always said, is ā€œin the DNAā€ of the brand ā€” not only in its food, but in its combination of irreverence and elegance, past and present, wit and edge. But most of the groupā€™s recent moves appear to be in the direction of a lifestyle brand for the worldā€™s 1 percent: members-only clubs with cigar bars; $500 tracksuits from Mr. Carboneā€™s fashion line,Ā Our Lady of Rocco; shrimp scampi priced at $35 per shrimp at Carbone Miami; and a branch of Sadelleā€™s, its homage to Jewish American food, in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia.

  5. šŸ§

    Purti Pareek, a lawyer who lives on the Upper West Side, respects the forthrightness of these places. ā€œChefs should be able to do what they want, and they put so much effort into creating the restaurants and creating their own point of view,ā€ she said. ā€œBut on the other hand, it makes me sad and annoyed as a vegetarian who wants to eat out at places like that and wants to experience every type of cuisine the world has to offer.ā€

    vegetarians: caveat emptor

  6. if you are headed to the ukĀ anytime soon, you might want to give thisĀ restaurant review blogĀ a quick look.

    some of you may rememberĀ andy lynesĀ fromĀ egullet; seems likeĀ andyĀ is a follower of the author onĀ threads.

    the below is an excerpt from a lengthy postĀ onĀ a gastropubĀ inĀ islington:
    Ā 

    The menu changes every day and they publish it on the website, so it was much as Iā€™d expected. Itā€™s curious how some menus present you with very difficult choices while some, despite making all the right noises, are devoid of dilemmas. I would say that, however well it read, the Drapers Arms menu was the latter. Nine starters, all of which seemed to be either gutsy and rustic or, for my money, a little too virtuous. It was all a tad binary for me. You had the same number of mains, although four of them ā€“ the fun ones ā€“ were to be shared between two.

    That made the whole thing a little more restrictive than Iā€™d have liked and if you didnā€™t like offal or bone marrow, both of which made an appearance, I think you might have found things trickier still. Starters generally clustered between eight and fifteen pounds, mains started just shy of twenty but climbed, for the sharing dishes, up to ninety quid.

  7. saturday:

    baked rockfish; steamed brown rice; miso shiru with carrots and mitsuba; carrot and daikon salad; quick cucumber and ginger pickle.

    Ā 

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  8. labor dayĀ lunch for four:

    insalata capreseĀ 

    polpette al sugo

    swiss chard and onion braised with pork fat and wine

    roasted zucchini with garlic, mint, and vinegarĀ 

    blood orange-rosemary ricotta pound cake

    digestifs/coffee/tea

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    • Like 1
  9. dashi-infused heirloom tomatoesĀ 

    miso shiru with turnips and turnip greens

    black cod simmered in soy sauce and mirin

    steamed rice

    cucumber and ginger pickles

    italianĀ fruit salad

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  10. His inspiration is his grandmother, an Italian-born French woman who exposed him to an amalgam of regional cuisines ā€” Lombardy in northern Italy, Nouvelle-Aquitaine in southwestern France, and Provence in the southeast of that country. He summarizes the style with the French phrase ā€œcomme dans lā€™arriĆØre pays,ā€ or ā€œlike in the old country,ā€ which here in New York City he interprets as ā€œtime-intensive, craft-based, regionally specific French dishes with a little bit of Italy peppered in by way of Provence and a few recognizable classics.ā€ He says the menu may include trout mi-cuit with beans, chanterelles, and clams; lamb stew with capers, olives, and summer savory; stuffed Bang Island mussels with costata romanesco squash and saffron; or bottarga on rye toast with goatā€™s butter.

    _______
    it all sounds very interesting although i am unsure whether the cuisine will be simpler (like it is in the old country) or if it will be gussied up:Ā click

  11. iā€™m not really curious about this except to wonder at how the mighty have fallen. andā€¦i just adore agedashi tofuā€¦but i donā€™t know anyone who would be into an agedashi hot dog.

    ā€”ā€”ā€”-

    Mr. Humm said he was ā€œecstaticā€ with the results. ā€œThe one thing we said we wanted it to be is a place of joy, of people coming together,ā€ said Mr. Humm, who gave the artist no other parameters. The chef likes that people will read different meanings in the paintings as they enjoy inventive cocktails, such as ā€œ5th Leafā€ with Suyo quebranta pisco, smoked sunchoke, pear and shiso, and plant-based versions of finger food including tempura fries, sake pickles and an agedashi tofu dog.

    click

    • Haha 1
  12. On 8/11/2024 at 8:50 AM, Wilfrid said:

    Service? The staff just seemed to be having a lot of fun (and there was certainly some wine tasting going on in the kitchen). The refurb? Attractive, respectful. M. Treboux's grandson Derek as maitre d'.

    The food? Very good. I admit, I thought this cuisine had vanished from New York for good. I was taken back, not so much to the old Veau D'Or, but to excellent French bistros like L'Absinthe and Trois Jeans. Indeed, it was at the former I always ordered theĀ tĆŖte de veau aux poireaux. That's what I started with here, if anything even better, meaty, with some pieces of soft boiled egg mixed in with the pickled leeks. Great ravigote sauce.

    Then the Delices, of course. My only complaint of the evening is that I would prefer the kidneys a little more cooked; the raw parts have a strange crunchy texture. Sweetbreads and liver excellent.

    Salad is included between main and dessert. It's exactly what it should be, some salad leaves with dressing (the bowl is too small).

    Given that it's a prix fixe, I thought I was going to have to toy with dessert, but thank heavens they have added a cheese plate. There aren't many wines BTG on the all-French list but the ones I ordered were good.

    A word about value. The current price, $125 for three-and-a-half courses (the salad counting as half, according to them) is terrific value in Manhattan today. You can spend more than that on three courses at much more ordinary restaurants. Of course, you can double the check here if you start with champagne then go BTG for each course.

    I want to come back soon because there's plenty more on the menu I want to eat.

    Photos starting with the little one-top.

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    i am just a teensy enviousĀ 

    and looking forward to reading about your future adventuresĀ 

    these photos are glorious šŸ„°

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