While the Helen Rosner piece was good, I did have an objection to her statement that "a meal as a whole can feel a bit repetitive. On one visit, Middle Eastern and African spices appeared over and over again, and fish preparations dominated the brief menu." Would any critic object to European spices appearing again and again? Oh, wait, are there any? And what's the problem with fish being on top?
My experience is that there's plenty of variety on their short menu.