I thought this was interesting (from a different interview with Sietsema):
MB In 2010, you wrote an essay in the Columbia Journalism Review that, among other things, traces how far the culture of dining out has come since you first moved to New York City in the late 1970s. Eating in restaurants, you point out, has gone from something most people did somewhat infrequently to becoming one of our primary forms of cultural entertainment.
RS Absolutely.
MB Of course, that’s great for a lot of reasons. But you also talk about how it’s creating a boom-and-bust cycle for restaurants, where “novelty and buzz is valued above excellence.”
RS Things have only slid downhill since 2010. About ninety percent of food writing is still publicist driven. A writer receives a press release by email and then proceeds to follow up on that story, and, in the sadder cases, almost copies the press release. It’s disappointing because food is such a broad and rich category.