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  • 2 weeks later...
14 minutes ago, Sneakeater said:

It's sad (but true) that you say that, living right near Kossar's.

Well, Kossar's, but version 4.0.   Back during version 2.0, we could stumble home after midnight on a Saturday night/Sunday morning, and I could get a fresh out of the oven bialy, which could be eaten just like that.  I could also get a pletzel or a large or small bulka.

Fortuitously, I just received Rossner's newsletter in my email. To wit:



NEO on a Bialy at Barney Greengrass

The lox scrambled with eggs and onions—LEO, for those in the know—at this century-old Upper West Side appetizing shop is a deservedly famous dish, but allow me to swing the spotlight a few lines higher on the menu. There, you’ll find the NEO, which uses Nova instead of the much saltier, much more face-punchy belly lox of the more famous variant. This preference isn’t a matter of sodium aversion; it’s a statement of connoisseurship. Lox is salmon that’s been salt-cured; its flavor is saline and intense. This aggressiveness has a time and a place—there’s a reason lox is so often cushioned by cream cheese and paired with sharp garnishes like tart tomato or raw red onion—but, in the LEO, its brashness totally overwhelms what ought to be a three-part harmony. Nova is also a salt-cured salmon, but then the fish is kissed with smoke. The flavor is sweeter, more subtle, a more elegant counterpart to sautéed onion, and its gentler texture is far more lovely against the eggs. The NEO at Barney Greengrass is one of the city’s great breakfast plates—but is it a sandwich? It is the way I eat it: get a bialy on the side, split and toasted, and pile on as much of the scramble as the bread will hold. There are few more exquisite ways to start a morning.



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