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the pete wells thread


Diancecht

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/1/2024 at 4:09 PM, Simon said:

Pete is back and has just filed a review of Shaw-naé’s House's on Staten Island ().

i so want to try what she has but staten island. 

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Posted (edited)

Ilis review this week ()

https://messaging-custom-newsletters.nytimes.com/dynamic/render?isViewInBrowser=true&te=1&nl=the-restaurant-review&emc=edit_pw_20240513&uri=nyt%3A%2F%2Fnewsletter%2F72c2d692-797c-551d-9ba3-40580ec7520f

"This use of natural materials in the kitchen is one of the hallmarks of the New Nordic style that Mr. Refslund helped found, and the handmade pieces at ILIS have a certain spooky pagan beauty. They cast a spell over all my meals there, a daydreamy state so pleasant that I didn’t want to admit that many of the dishes weren’t really landing the way they should.

A similar spell must have fallen over the writers and influencers who have been talking about ILIS as if it were a New York City branch of Noma. It’s far from that. Mr. Refslund and René Redzepi served as co-chefs of Noma when it opened in 2003 in Copenhagen. After about six months, they agreed that they weren’t cut out to work together, and Mr. Refslund left. He doesn’t try to claim credit for what Noma became, but a lot of people in New York seem eager to give it to him.

The food at ILIS doesn’t resemble any of the dishes I ate at Noma six years ago, each of which pulsed with flavor and originality and was as satisfying as a great pop song or short story. Some of the cooking at ILIS is heading in that direction, but a lot of it tastes wispy and unfinished."

Edited by Simon
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54 minutes ago, Simon said:

Blanca?

I can't comment on individual restaurants but I think you can guess all three (of course there might be a churro stand thrown in there for good measure). 

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  • 4 weeks later...
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 Some of these, like Asador Etxebarri in Spain and Schloss Schauenstein in Switzerland, are hard to reach.

Let's be fair - Etxebarri is 30 minutes by car from Bilbao. You can leave Madrid at 11am for lunch there, and still be back in time for dinner. Not very hard. 
 

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the few diners who will go to almost any length for reservations will go home feeling bloated and drunk.

The technical term for "feeling bloated and drunk" is "having a proper dinner in Europe"

But he's got a point about the format and the economics of scarcity it revolves around, of course.

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