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Sneakeater

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13 hours ago, Sneakeater said:

I can only assume that McCart doesn't cook.  She doesn't shop the Greenmarket.  She isn't familiar with ingredients.  So when she saw the Foul Witch menu call out the Upstate Abundance potato variety, she must have figured that it had to be special in a way that could drive that dish's price.  And she did some internet research and misunderstood what she found.

 

A negative trifecta.

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Just to be clear about what I was trying to say in that long post, I don't want to read that a restaurant is charging too much for very high-quality prawns because all the writer knows are other less-good prawns (well really he said shrimp) that are cheaper, and then read that an expensive potato dish is worth it because the potato used is so expensive when in fact it isn't (although there's another ingredient in the dish, not fastened on by the writer, that is at least a little expensive).

If you don't know what you're talking about, don't publish professionally on the subject.

Morons.

Edited by Sneakeater
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I'm sorry, I can't let go of this.

The other thing to note about that Foul Witch dish that knocked Melissa McCart out is that it's absolutely nothing new.  There are millions of variations you see at restaurants of caviar and smetana/sour cream/crème fraîche on blini.  Many of them involve swapping in smashed potatoes for the blini.  This Foul Witch dish is just another one.

I'm not knocking the dish.  Even in my rendition, it was tasty as hell.  And Foul Witch didn't make any claims for its originality.

It's just that when a food writer writes about something like this dish as if it's something new to her, exclaiming about its unique combination of "a designer potato [heh], butter [I'll bet she doesn't know that beurre blanc isn't butter, either], and umami", it makes me wonder about her credentials.

Edited by Sneakeater
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I think it's more interesting than that. Helen Rosner, long known as a long-form feature writer on food, turns out to be a really sharp and informed restaurant columnist. I don't think anyone here thinks Tammie Teclamariam sucks. We won't always agree with Pete Wells, but I would contest that he sucks. The replacement for Platt, Matt Schneier, hasn't seemed prepared to deal with the details of the food so far; but it's early days.

Then there are the ones that do suck -- although I think a lot of the pieces we criticize are written by young writers at an early stage in their career who just can't be expected to have breadth or depth of food experience (I wouldn't have had, aged 25 or 26). And the reasons those writers are shuffled out to do "criticism," or at least comment on food, are purely economical. They're cheap. A lot cheaper than Ryan Sutton, for example.

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15 minutes ago, Wilfrid said:

I think it's more interesting than that. Helen Rosner, long known as a long-form feature writer on food, turns out to be a really sharp and informed restaurant columnist. I don't think anyone here thinks Tammie Teclamariam sucks. We won't always agree with Pete Wells, but I would contest that he sucks. 

I haven't encountered a food "critic" that I can stomach reading. But, I applaud the tenacity of the criticism in this thread. 

Edited by backyardchef
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It's interesting that right below the blurb challenging Fox Nat's prawn pricing, they celebrate expensive offerings of butter.

It's not clear why they understand that one kind of food that's often inexpensive (or, at restaurants, free) can sometimes be justifiably expensive based on ingredient quality, but not another.

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Alright, I have some thoughts. First, about

Quote

Gotham Burger Social Club, a viral pop-up that’s opening on the Lower East Side early next year.

It's not a viral pop-up that's opening. It's a restaurant.

I'm also confused by the reference to

Quote

what used to be an accessibly priced classic (served with shrimp).

As far as I can tell, which is pretty far, 'cause I've had it, this "classic" is not WITH shrimp. It IS shrimp. Also, shrimp cocktail was never all that accessibly priced. That's why it's served in steakhouses. Get back to me when fried calamari is $10/ring.

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